Well I finally got the screen fitted today, it was an insurance job so only cost the £50 excess. Making sire the fan casing is in good order, aging any rust holes and ensuring the ducts and flexible hose to the matrix are leak free makes the world if difference, too. Looks like D247 on the circuit diagram, but where is it in the vehicle? Heated Windscreen Wiring Kit with Switch for Land Rover Defender You can retro fit a heated windscreen into your Defender using this wiring kit, and we offer two versions depending on the age of your Defender. For full information regarding our delivery services please view our page. The screen heating element within the glass is split into two seperate halves. Using the square foam pads from the packaging works well for this as it ensures the right clearance at the bottom, centralising the glass neatly and getting it level within the frame so that the visible edges of the foil strips along the top and bottom are even within the frame. Ideally putting it in the battery box will let you have a short run, a fuse then the relay down in the battery box neatly mounted on the side, then just run a small wire for switching and a big wire to the screen up to the dash area, deck the screen locally to a good earth using an appropriate sized wire, deck the relay in the battery box and take an ignition switched live from up where you mount your switch.
Forgot to mention yesterday, at the dealers, I had a look at a year old 110 with a heated screen and that only had the two connections at each corner. The above is perfectly adequate and safe way of doing it, if you prefer you can loom it all up to have both switch wires and L and N feed to the screen all loomed together back to the battery box. Is the third connection is a recent modification? Run this up to your relay and then the switched side onto your windscreen. . Even with timer relays, I find sections of the screen burn out prematurely, so overriding the relay and switching off manually once the screen is clear is a good idea.
Now just looking forward to the winter. The heated screens have a foil strip between the laminates along the top and bottom, mostly but not completely hidden by the frame. Edit: a few uses in recent over-night foggy conditions have proven both systems work well, though the demister vents need full fan speed to keep the side window fogging at cleared. I used the proper timer relay. So, they had to be sited off centre of the slots, with their ends flush with the dash ends, but this is still fine as full flow is still achieved and the internal vanes of the new demister ensure good flow direction.
This echoes my own experiences in the 90, where I gradually get more and more foggy stripes on the screen that either take a long time to clear or don't clear at all. Anybody got any ideas, pls let me know! The total cost was £260 — not a cheap option, but only £8 dearer than the cheapest alternative. The two terminals in the corners of your new screen feed the respective heating elements at each side of the screen. As a result all glass products are sent at the customers risk and no replacements can be sent if damaged. I did get a change for a basic try out of the new screen and side demisters the other morning, where it was just damp and tepid enough to cause the windows to start fogging slightly with the whole family dogs included in the car. The Carling Contura Switch is for the older Defenders before 2002.
So are you saying that if I buy another 'rear heated screen switch' then this will do the trick? Cheers for all the tips guys. The fitter turned up with what must have been a britpart seal. However - it came with a warning, in that heated screens - especially of this type - should be wired thru a timer relay so that they are turned off automatically after a short period. I'm getting a heated front screen fitted soon and I'm in the process of installing the wiring for it. Coming on for a second then dropping out could be a voltage sensing relay in operation.
Pioneered by Ford, heated windscreens have been around since the 1960's and were originally used by rally and motorsport cars as a lightweight solution to demisting the windscreen whilst out on track. I find them invaluable now. Are they really this sensitive to over-heating do you think? Once installed, a little fettling of the position of the vent fore or aft over the slots fine tuned the proportion of air flow diverted from the front screens to the side windows — this would be pre-determined by the locating tabs on the Defender, but on an early vehicle, moving the vent further towards the windscreen will divert more air to the sides, and there is enough clearance on the screws in their holes to allow a reasonable adjustment. Get in touch via , Instagram , tweet , comment on or contact on. Rear screen is working, so I don't think it is to do with voltage sensing. Diesel Jim, have you added a timer relay or was there already one there? As I have a 1999 Defender it doesn't have any of the wiring to connect to the new heated seats so after installing the seats I ran new power cables from the Raptor Dash Console to the battery box and then installed a pair of 12v relays where are protected via a 15amp fuse. Ideally putting it in the battery box will let you have a short run, a fuse then the relay down in the battery box neatly mounted on the side, then just run a small wire for switching and a big wire to the screen up to the dash area, deck the screen locally to a good earth using an appropriate sized wire, deck the relay in the battery box and take an ignition switched live from up where you mount your switch.
It also allows tidier routing of the wiring inside the dash, through the plastic grommet just left of centre of the bulkhead top rail. The relays and fuse where fitted in the back of the battery box and connected via 30amp cable to the battery and the two switch control wires connected to the relay coils. Personally I would invest in a 10 minute relay and use use a push to make switch, hit it once and the relay will stay on for 10 minutes. Power comes on to the screen terminals for a second when you press the switch then goes off. My Defender is a 1996 110 300tdi and Im having the heated screen connected by a professional auto-electrician, but Im providing the parts.
I had to explain I didn't care that before a loom was connected the heating function didn't work. Here is a guide to some of the services we offer. The glazing is fitted in the same manner as normal, but you do have to allow space at the bottom of the screen for the wiring to fit behind the retaining strips. Unfortunately, I found the outboard ends of the trims tended to sit high, a couple of mm off the dash top. The two terminals in the corners of your new screen feed the respective heating elements at each side of the screen.
Take that ign live via your switch onto your relay switch wire so when you press it the relay activates and powers your screen. Or at least a swith that you just have to press once? To power the screens, I used the 20A Carling Tech switch previously used for the heated wing mirrors hooking them up to the heater rear screen circuit like most manufacturers do , allowing a direct feed to the screens which consume 18A. Putting it on again for another 3 minutes helps, but is still stripy as you describe! Mr Western, what is the part number for a heated front screen on a 1996 300 tdi defender????? It is a factory fit, but I don't know where it is and I don't want to dismantle the dahsboard and then find it is under the bonnet somewhere! Anyone have any idea where it comes from or what its purpose is 'cos I can't see it on my wiring diagram, it is original circa 1987. I may give it a whirl on a spare screen just to satisfy my curiosity. Without it, your screen won't work.