When assembling, use new washers as shown. It is a round canister with one hose attached to the top, and the bottom, it also has a band around the center of the filter attaching it to a bracket. I put the front of the car up on jack stands, so I recommend you have a pair of those and a floor jack to raise your car up. Replacement brand parts are the most affordable solution for all of your replacement needs! Tighten everything down, and you're ready to tighten your fuel lines. Also, make sure you have a drain or drip pan to catch the fuel you're bound to lose. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma.
One is done with just Starting Fluid and the other is using a fuel pressure gauge. Should you need further help please just ask. It may take you a bit longer, but you can do it for a fraction of the cost. I'll take you through it step by step and show you what tools you'll need to get the job done. You will more than likely have to bend the bracket than connects the fuel filter to the firewall. Great fit, efficient performance, and robust style are the defining characteristics of Airtex's original equipment equivalent fuel pump. Refer to a manual for this.
Roger Jun 25, 2010 if you have a 95 accord you dont need tp pump the throttle it is a fuel injected car the problem does lie in the fuel system the filter is a good place to start but i woud check the fuek injectors and the fuel presure regulater. I promise you, if you follow my advice, this job will be a lot easier. For those who haven't tried this, this is definitely the 'hard' part of this, as stated above, most cars will have normal corrosion on the bottom, and getting a wrench on this lower fitting is hard to do in the first place, getting enough force on it to get it loose is much harder. These items aren't essential, but might come in handy. Trust me, it can be done. Aren't you glad you read my thread?! You will want to have a rag handy when you undue the fuel lines because the fuel is under pressure and a small amount is going to run out when you loosen the bolts.
I bought the crows foot flare 14mm tool and it made a world of a difference. Once that bolt's out, reach behind and finish loosening the flare nut on the back side. Remove 17 mm Banjo bolt from upper fuel line. Remove 14 mm bolt from the bottom fuel line. I recommend leaving the bolt that holds the bracket onto the filter alone and removing the filter and bracket as one piece. That way, you can put more muscle into breaking flare nuts loose without running as much risk of stripping your flare nut as you do with an open-ended wrench or crow's foot.
If you can't turn it by hand, turn the filter until it pops loose. Please Read Proposition 65 Warning In The Description. This filter is not meant to be replaced as a normal maintanence item. Remove the old filter by undoing the two bolts and the two lines, then put the lines and bolts on the new filter. For more information, go to.
Remove and replace the fuel filter from the clamp. Decreased level of driving quality, poor general performance, suboptimal gas mileage, or exposure to possible unit failure are just some down sides of driving a vehicle with a defective component. Then, once I had it, the job took me less than 30 minutes. This way I know it was helpful. The top connector is not a problem, neither is the mounting bracket. It is time to replace the fuel filter.
Once you're all tight, start the car and inspect for leaks. If you've got the right tool, don't be afraid to lay into it. It might take some muscle. This replacement item is thoroughly patterned after to work like the genuine fuel pump mounted on your car or truck. Go up to the topside, now. Once you've got the flare nut loosened and it will turn freely, you can move on to the banjo bolt. Get under the car and look for the back side of the fuel filter.
Step 2 — Locate the fuel filter The fuel filter location is different on certain model years. It is to the left of and slightly below the brake master cylinder. I had to remove mine a couple of times to straighten the bracket when putting it back together. This the the vacuum control box. I too did this repair on my car yesterday, and had a different experience.
I had to remove mine a couple of times to straighten the bracket when putting it back together. Refer to a manual for this. It is time to replace the fuel filter. If it stalls, then there is your problem! Aren't you glad you read my thread?! Choose either option, but remember that running with a bad fuel filter will eventually lead to clogged fuel injectors at best. Just might take a little finesse.