Kind of bummed no one had any advice or guidance on this issue. Deep water starting is the primary means of starting the watercraft. Pressurized engine and it held pressure for 2 days til I released pressure. A primer has been installed in foot well. . I believe it was a bad ground in the electrical box case.
Haven't pulled flywheel yet, but pretty much looks like stator will be toasted as the wire melted all the way back to where the harness goes into the flywheel case. I dont' believe it's the actual switch assembly because the problem exists with the old switch and the switch taken off a running ski. One wire carries 12V to the switch and the other takes that 12V down to close the starter relay upon pressing the button. Bottom line is that it is back up and running. Discovered a clear almost varnish type coating on the bolt hole surface area on both mounts for the rectifier which was not allowing a good ground.
There are 4 hoses from top of fuel tank. Could the problem be with the Relay Switch in the Electrical Box? I have the exact same problem in my 1997 Tigershark Daytona 1000. I checked with a meter while that bolt was still in place and between the bolt head and a clean area of casing i had infinite resistance. So i tore everything apart. If there is none, shut off the engine and find the source of the trouble. Apply a little throttle occasionally.
I removed the bolt and measured again from the top of the bolt hole surface where the eyelet sits to a clean area of electical box case - again, infinate resistance. I will need to acquire a fuel shutoff valve on off reserve. I am hoping to be able to have it cranking over by Sunday I will be out of town til tomorrow night. The top front hose from the fuel pump went to lower port on carb. So even though the connection was securely together before, it was in the connection and taking it apart and putting it back together did the trick! When the exhaust system is dry, it can take up to 15 seconds for water to appear at the bypass outlet. Should also have a check valve on the oil tank vent if it is still there. Okay, to make a long story short, I got this 87 in trade like 4 years ago and it has been sitting in my garage since.
Any help would be appreciated. I will remove the unused choke switch and install the fuel shutoff in it's place. Not sure if the switch was part of the problem. It is not necessarily the easiest way to start, but it must be mastered so that you can get going again after the inevitable spill in deep water. So if anyone has an extra fuel shutoff and about 10ft of fuel line let me know.
If the pics load, please provide your thoughts. Appearantly the only thing that stopped it from melting all the way was the Flywheel Casing being full of oil. Look on ebay for a shutoff. The stop button has a blue and black wire I think. After the engine has started, allow it to warm up for about 1 minute. Replaced entire switch assembly from a working ski and same exact problem.
From the separator a hose ran to the rear port of the fuel pump with the primer tied into it. This weekend i will reassemble my electrical box ensurning all connectors in it are tight and taped with electrical tape. The primer is supposed to replace the choke. After researching found lots of info on air leaks. The alcohol eats std rubber for lunch. Need help as this one is out of my area of knowledge and I don't want to waste money on something without understanding the problem. Excessive idling can foul the spark plugs.
This indicates that cooling water is circulating. I will try to explain and add pics. The second one will run from the ground on starter to the lower mounting bolt on the electrical box. The fuel pump has 3 ports 2 towards front and 1 towards rear. Still confused as why the start button worked but not the stop button. The water separator goes in line with the tank vent.
If it was me, I would move the primer to the choke side, and put the shutoff in it's orig. So now I need a stator to put it back together. Installed shutoff in place of choke. On the last bolt of the box cover, smoked the wiring. The vent hose with check vlv, and the return hose. I haven't been able to locate the entire electrical assembly to just bypass the entire issue! Not sure how to fix and not sure which box to replace or even focus my attention on? The engine runs and idles fine.
I got it to shut down pretty quick. I picked up 4 wire and 5 wire flat trailer harness connectors. Any electrical gurus out there who can at least explain how the electrical works on these ski to help my diagnosis the problem? Not sure where the lower front hose from fuel pump went or the return hose going into fuel tank. If you leave it, and get low on fuel, your sol. Went to reinstall and cannot figure out the hose routing for the fuel system. Pulled the engine and rigged up pressure test.