You also agree to our , and to our regarding the information relating to you. Then dry with a air. The floorpan is more keyed because of the use of 30-60 grit to abrade it. This is what neutralises the acids. So I hired, at considerable expense one of those trailer mounted 130cfm suckers from Kennards. I am living the dream! Have to have the panel warm before you spray or it can stay tacky and may not even fully cure cause the top has skinned off before the first coat that's directly on the substrate has had a chance to cure.
It seems a shame in a way to convert my yummy bare metal floorpan to this orange stuff. Check out other properties near 408 Wet Rock Ln - , , , , and. Which will be hard to do on the underside of the car. Best bet would be to see what protec recomend and stick to their range the whole way through,ie. It may sound like paranoia but this is what works for me and I've done more than a few bare metal jobs that are 7 plus years old now that aren't showing any signs of funky shit playing up under the paint. What I think will do is mask of the underbody with builders film in an effort to limit atmospheric damage.
If you can pull up an edge with your nail your going to have to strip it and start again. I have also scheduled this project and have set deadlines that appear a litle unrealistic. This morning, after Ando76's input, my thinking was that I was all set to resume the phosphoric acid metal prep, post prepsol. This is always something that shits me when someone comes in and freaks out when we give them a rough idea of what they will be paying to have a job that's covered by a lifetime paint warranty and done to a standard that we think needs to be adhered to , to have half a chance of surviving up here. Although places like radiator support where I don't want any build, I wouldn't mind scuffing, applying more epoxy and putting colour over wet on wet.
Its working for me so far so i hope im doing it right I finished blasting the pan on Friday. Can colour like a satin black be put over the top of well cured epoxy once scuffed, or is it recommended to cut back, coat with more then colour wet on wet?. This consent is not a condition of any purchase of any kind from anyone and applies even if I am on a corporate, state or national Do Not Call list. Check the spelling and formatting: Please check your spelling and use the common location formats listed below. Comparable nearby homes for sale include , and.
However it doesn't bother me to scuff and clean epoxied areas not entirely visible and shoot a solid colour over it. And that is cars that live here in Cairns we have rusts best friends, humidity, rain and salty air. . Starting on 1 panel includes paint removal orby finish back to bare once the bulk is gone then metal conditioning then another pass with the orby with 80 or even 40 grit to really key it up then epoxy it immediately. So for panels i'll do say 2 doors at a time. I can show numerous examples of cars that have been done this way and are still rust free - have no humidity blister or rust creep.
I can expose smaller areas at a time and keep other areas sealed off. I have no trouble with slowing down as my build is already pretty damn slow It's just my confusion has been aroused from reading threads stating to quickly recoat epoxy and then go over that with your next 2k system wet on wet for chemical bond with no need for sanding in between. And that is cars that live here in Cairns we have rusts best friends, humidity, rain and salty air. To be honest if you've blasted it clean I'd be inclined to just clean up the grit and ep straight over what you've done. Then once you can lightly stick a finger on it with out it actually being wet go the next coat.
If you go a third coat then the wait time is even longer. I did a test patch using the metal conditioner. Suffice to say with that much air and money on a per-day basis! Something else to consider is not letting it get in between seams and joins because it will be hard to guarantee that you have in fact nuetralised it. I've used metal conditioner before on much smoother metal and it produces a blueing effect. Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. Anyway, they offer two epoxies.
I agree my information is subject to the. How long must you wait before spraying over? I've been checking the tech sheet and I can't see any mention of this. There's a greater probabilty that this will cause issues rather that the microscopic flash rusting that occurs over two cold Melbourne days on a vehicle that is a dry, well sealed shed. Gonna go and have a poke at the car tonight. Thanks for your input chaps.
Just my opinion others may contradict this. All I can see is recoat time frames from as low as 10 hours minimum. The big day for painting is supposed to be tomorrow. Your consent is not required as a condition to buy. It is still sitting in the exact same position as when I took that photo and has been there for 3 years and shows no signs of rust creep or nothing. Its always the case of so and so down the road will do it for half of that then complain about it when it goes to shit cause they were to tight to pony up the proper dollars to get the job done right! Whilst she's on her side blow all the dust from the blasting grit off, wiping with a rag as you go. And yes the internet can confuse issues at times, but really when you have two people from the same crappy weather region, where rust is a major issue, telling you the exact same thing - well there has to be something in that.
Last week, one of my compressors that I use to drive the sandblaster packed up. I was planning on prepsoling the floor then using the metal conditioner as suggested. He loves the stuff that much I reckon he has a spoon full for breakfast. While such information is thought to be reliable, it is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. Wet on wet painting can give a superior bond in some instances between coats of epoxy and high fill primers but when it comes to top coats you would really have to know what your doing cause there is so much that can go wrong like poor finish, shrinkage and peel. The remaining two, by themselves are insufficient to drive the blaster really effectively.